Middleburg Heights: Where Have We Been? Where Are We Now? And Where Are We Going?

 

Click the link below to open up a PowerPoint with more cool pictures!

https://docs.google.com/a/malone.edu/file/d/0BzpMcd3Akp0FbV9mVDlDQnNhRXM/edit?usp=drive_web 

          The United States contains 50 states, 3,007 counties, and roughly 35,000 cities/towns/townships/villages. The great thing (and sometimes overwhelming thing) about history is that each state, county, and city has a story behind them filled with people, places, and heritage. Moreover, each state, county, and city has people that feel a special connection with the places that they have called home their entire lives. Middleburg Heights, Ohio has one of those stories and I am one of those people. The idea of appreciating the past, but planning for the future is expressed in many forms and has become a tad cliché, however, that doesn’t mean it cannot be a helpful perspective. In fact, those in leadership in cities across the US (and the world, for that matter), often face the challenge of figuring out how to balance local heritage and development for the future. The pictures on the previous page are an example of this challenge; it is Hickox Park, a small cemetery with the graves of some of the original settlers of the city, which is now in the midst of a parking lot for a strip mall. Over time, change on some level is inevitable in any city, and Middleburg Heights is certainly no exception. However, if there is a change that has become consistent in Middleburg Heights over time, it is growth (or at least attempted growth) in some form, whether it’s the city’s population, economy, or building development (be it residential or commercial). What have these changes been and how did it all start? Where have the changes brought the city up until this point? How can positive growth continue and even increase moving forward? This paper represents a preliminary answer to these questions by looking at the history of Middleburg Heights, an evaluation of its current economic state, and stated plans by local government officials as well as other suggestions that stem from outside sources.

            When giving an overview history of nearly any area in the United States, it would be remiss not to mention Native Americans. In the mid-1600s, the Cuyahoga River region was dominated by the Erie tribe.[1] The early 18^th century saw a battle over fur trade with Europeans between tribes in a Native American coalition throughout Ohio.[2] This battle pitted the Iroquios from the east against the Hurons (allied with the Wyandots) from the west with the former emerging victorious. The Wyandots would find their way to Northern Ohio in 1745, but the immediate years following would bring new settlers and treaties (e.g. The Treaty of Granville – 1795, which opened up land east of the Cuyahoga River and Fort Industry – 1805, which opened up land west of the river) that pushed them further west into the Sandusky area. This ceding of land did not please Shawnee Indian Chief Tecumseh, but it would allow Gideon Granger, the postmaster-general of Thomas Jefferson, to travel along the Indian trail Wooster Pike (a.k.a. Pearl Road – State Route 42) and buy the 14,194 acres of land that made up Township 6, Range 14 of the Western Reserve for $26,000 in 1807.[3]

            Granger reportedly offered an allotment of 50 acres to the first person that would settle in this largely wild and swampy area. This offer was supposedly denied by the famous Cleveland blacksmith Abram Hickox, but accepted by Abram’s brother, Jared, who came in 1809 and settled next to Lake Abram (named after his brother).[4] The Hickox family was from Waterbury, Connecticut, and two years later, two brothers from the same city – Abram and John Fowles –would also travel to the land which was then dubbed “Plumfield” by Rachel Hickox (Jared’s wife).[5] Abram Fowles would marry Rachel Hickox (daughter of Jared and Rachel) in 1812 to produce the town’s first marriage. At that time, the area still contained some Native Americans, but overall it was still largely unpopulated for several factors: 1.) the dangers of the War of 1812, of which Ohio was a main battleground, and forced the early families in the city to take refuge in Columbia Station at times,[6] 2.) the land itself was swampy and on low ground, which resulted in sparse places where crops could be cultivated, 3.) with the swamp came malaria carried by the many mosquitoes, 4.) the wooded areas of the township were infested with dangerous wildlife including wolves, bears, and wild cats, that would often eat the cattle and sheep of the farmers (the last wolf was not killed until 1888), and 5.) the neighboring towns of Columbia and Strongsville attracted many more settlers with their higher ground and more manageable soil.

            Settlers came in slowly, such as Solomon Lovejoy (built the first tavern in the area, which became a stop on the Underground Railroad), Abijah Bagely (bought the Hickox property and the road outside of it became known as “Bagley’s Road”), the Vaughn family, and the Beckett family (both families were from Middleburgh, New York).[7] Migration would increase though, as John Baldwin discovered sandstone after he bought the Vaughn farm in 1828; he began what became a massive grindstone and building stone industry that was internationally known and attracted many German and Polish immigrants as well as new railroads in the township.[8] In 1836, Henry Sheldon, the township’s first minister and also a circuit rider, led the charge in establishing a post office in the western part of the township, which would be named Berea and become a separate village in 1850.[9]

As Berea was thriving, the muck in what was now East Middleburgh Township, especially around Lake Abram, was discovered to be very useful for certain crops, especially onions.^[10]The original idea of draining Lake Abram came from Francis Granger, the son of Gideon Granger, who with other settlers in 1843 created a small outlet which became known as Abram Creek.[11] In 1876, more of the lake was drained and “immense quantities” of onions began to be raised and were “sent to Cleveland, and numerous other cities of Ohio, and to the principal places along the lower Mississippi, including many large shipments to New Orleans.”^[12] Onions continued to be a staple in the area’s success well into the 1900s, until the top soil was sold more than the crops themselves, and “the water area dried up and the land became a dumping ground.”^[13] The last farm in the area was sold in 1971.

As stated earlier, Berea became a village in 1850 and it largely served as the center of Middleburg Township because it was “the only large settlement and had quarries, educational institutions and a post office.”^[14] In 1907, those in the north section of Middleburg Township began to complain of inadequate education and law enforcement (among other things) and a movement was created for the north section to secede from the township and become its own village. This movement would eventually bring about the creation of Brook Park in 1914, which constituted 10 square miles in the northern area of the township.^[15]

With the villages of Berea and Brook Park created, East Middleburgh stood alone as the last remaining section of old Middleburgh Township and “in July, 1920, Berea had proposed that the annexation of the remainder of the Township would be a great benefit to the Township and to Berea.”^[16] This eastern section of the township had developed some high end housing[17] and when news got around that it appeared Berea had everything lined up to annex the remaining section in August of 1927, 100 citizens (of the 600 residents) of East Middleburgh “packed themselves into the former rural schoolhouse (District 10) at Fry and Sheldon Roads to discuss the formation of a new village with the name of Middleburg Heights already chosen.”^[18] This would be a risky decision, as annexation would have brought cheaper taxes and villages often failed.[19] However, after a 316 to 41 vote at Laska’s Bar on Bagley Road, the decision to form a village was affirmed and by January 1928, the last 8 square miles of Middleburg Township became the village of Middleburg Heights. Charles Grissom was elected as the village’s first mayor and the District 10 schoolhouse served as the village’s first city hall.

The first significant event of the 1930s was the building of a new city hall under Mayor C.T. James (mayor from 1930-35). There were three possible sites for the building and a couple of design plans. The building that would serve the 10 square mile village of 1,900 people would be located on Bagley Road, roughly 9,000 feet from Wooster Pike, and cost $53,000.[20] The opening of the new city hall was a highly attended event and even attracted the then current Ohio governor, George White. The building (along with an addition) still serves as city hall today, but used to serve many more purposes (including a jail and a library) before the village had developed other buildings. Other events of the 1930s included the brick paving of the Wooster Pike and an $117,000 lawsuit against the county from the farmers who suffered from faulty sewers installed by the Works Progress Administration near Lake Abram.[21]

The 1940s brought three different mayors: George Meyer (1938-43), Fred Rudolph (1944-47), and Andrew Rosbaugh (1948-55). In 1940, the District 10 schoolhouse became the private residence of Harvey Cross and in 1947 the first church was established in the village.[22] It was not until after WWII that things really began to get moving in Middleburgh Heights, as the village was a great beneficiary of the white-flight suburban trend in the late 40s and 50s.

In 1948, Anthoni Visconsi (owner of Visconsi Company, Ltd) bought two large farms at the corner of W. 130^th and Pearl (then Settlement Road and Wooster Pike).[23] This area would develop into Southland Shopping Center, which was then the largest mall of its kind in the state. The outdoor mall originally had a single strip of stores (including Cleveland Trust Bank, JC Penney, and Bradnan’s Bowling Alley), a restaurant (Howard Johnson’s, which would become Kenny King’s) as well as a movie theater and a drug store that were independent from Visconsi ownership. A second strip was added “with a Sears Hardware Store at the one end of the strip and a Halle’s Department store at the other.”[24] The mall continued to expand as more strips were added, Smith Road was extended, and new stores/venues (e.g. a putt-putt course, Woolworth, and Pick-n-Pay) emerged.  

Southland wasn’t the only place expanding in Middleburgh Heights in the 1950s; residential development also continued as the village kept growing. “Rolling Ranchlands” was a new set of ranch homes developed by R.A. Gall in 1955.[25] Also in the 1950s, was the establishment of the first Catholic Church in Middleburgh Heights (1957) – St. Bartholomew’s on Bagley Road.

The consistent change of growth was especially evident in the 1960s, as signs of prosperity were plentiful. One of these signs was that the city’s population had grown to 7,282, according to the 1960 census. Another huge indicator of prosperity came in 1961 with Middleburg Heights officially being incorporated as a city.[26] In 1962, plans for Interstate 71 were made, as the new city would have two exits (one on Bagley and one on Pearl) on the highway that connects Cleveland, Columbus, and Cincinnati. Several new schools opened in the 1960s, including Midpark High School in 1963 (now Middleburg Heights Junior High), Middlebrook Elementary School in 1964, and Middleburg Heights Junior High in 1965 (now Big Creek Elementary). In 1968, the large housing development called “Indian Creek” was built as well as the still standing K-Mart at the corner of Engle and Bagley Roads.[27] Finally, in 1969, the branch of the Cuyahoga County Library was opened on the corner of Bagley and the Big Creek Parkway.

In 1970, the population of the city reached 12,367, which represents an impressive 70% increase over the previous decade. There were five different mayors in the 1970s, far more than any other decade in the city’s short history. Two of the major employers in the city began in the 70s with the new Southwest General Hospital across from the old Hickox property in 1975 and UPS opening its hub off of Engle Road in 1977.[28]

From the 1980s to the present, change and growth have happened, but not at the rate at which they did in the 50s and 60s. The population of the city hit its peak in 1980 (16,228) and then dropped off to 14,702 in 1990. While the city’s population bounced back to 15,969 in 2010, the 80s were reminiscent of recent years in that the decreased enrollment forced some schools to close or combine.[29] Part of the explanation for this slowing down is the simple fact that there is not as much room for residential development as there used to be. However, even though the population has curbed off, there has still been plenty of development in other areas. Southland has continued to change all throughout this time, as many old stores have been replaced or torn down to put in larger ones. Other examples of development are the opening of Middleburg Heights Plaza on Pearl and Bagley in 1988, the new fire department in 1991, the new community center in 2000, and further investment by the Cleveland Metroparks (among other things). When comparing practically any place in the city with its past, one will usually find noticeable differences, but there has been one constant in the last 30 years: Mayor Gary Starr, who assumed the office in 1981. Mayor Starr and those in local government office are quick to show the recent strides that have been made in the city and have a vision that they believe will lead to sustainable success.

To try to get a glimpse of this vision as well as a gauge of where Middleburg Heights is at economically and overall, I interviewed the city’s Director of Economic Development, Charles Bichara and attended Mayor Gary Starr’s State of the City Address at the Middleburg Heights Community Center on April 10^th. When talking about the economy of any business, city, or state in the US, it is often in light of the 2008 recession. Both Mr. Bichara and Mayor Starr understand that this perspective is relevant in today’s age, as each highlighted that Middleburg Heights has largely avoided the negative effects of the recession. As a matter of fact, Bichara noted how the city has actually expanded since 2008 (even in 08-09, which was very rare among communities) and Starr added that the city has not had to lay off any city employees and has maintained surpluses and all city services. If there have been any negative effects from the recession, it has been that several office buildings in the city have lost clients because of the difficulties of smaller businesses staying open.[30]

Over the past year, Starr, along with the city government, worked to achieve three goals: enhance neighborhoods, strengthen public safety (which Starr calls “the purpose of government”), and improve communication. To accomplish the first, the city has invested $3 million in infrastructure (primarily roads). The city was motivated to pursue the second goal after the Newtown, Connecticut shooting. “Operation Protect Our Children” was started in conjunction with the Berea City School District (whom the city gave $38,000) and took advantage of the expertise of former Secret Service directors. The operation seeks to enhance security in schools and quicken response time to emergencies. Finally, to work toward the third goal, the city has revamped its website to include more information and announcements and started a phone alert system called “Code Red” (for emergencies, power outages, weather warnings, etc.).

Currently, the city of Middleburg Heights is home to 1,300 businesses and 22,000 employees.[31] According to Starr, the city has the 14^th highest credit rating out of the cities in Ohio and also has healthy cash reserves. Starr talked about the three key marks that Middleburg Heights works towards: maintaining property value and growth, meeting the general obligation debt (he cites the example of the Service Center built in 2000 being paid off in 2013), and keeping low tax rates (city in top 25% of lowest property taxes in the county). As far as intermingling business and government, Bichara stated how city officials adopted a protocol to not recruit businesses to the city, but rather to wait for businesses to come to them, while working efficiently with commercial real estate owners. When businesses ask what Middleburg Heights can offer them, both Bichara and Starr are quick to point to the city’s progressive zoning policies, expedient service within the government, proximity to I-71, I-80, I-480, and the Cleveland Hopkins Airport, and a helpful planning and design committee. Starr referenced these qualities as reasons why businesses are investing in the city in 2014 and gives the examples of the major addition to Southwest General Hospital, the new $25 million MetroHealth center,[32] the planned $5 million expansion of Sunnyside Audi car dealership on Pearl Road, the proposed $11 million manufacturing facility that would bring 150 jobs, and the further expansion of large employers such as Quadax and Amerimart.

But, what about the future? One of the historic staples in the economy of the city has been Southland Shopping Center, but a casual look at the shopping center’s history will show just how much it has changed. When asked about the future of Southland, Bichara began by stating that Southland proper is 800,000 square feet that still receives many customers despite not having freeway accessibility or visibility.[33] He noted how the redevelopment of the newly expanded Giant Eagle in 2008, the moving of the city’s home-days to the Visconsi Way portion of Smith Road, and other developments such as Key Bank on the corner of Smith and Pearl are at least signs that attention is being given to the area and there is some improvement. The Visconsi Company no longer owns Southland and Bichara pointed out how the new owners, Brixmor Property Group, are constantly trying to recruit new retailers. Some aspirations include developing new buildings where Gabriel Brothers and the old Office Max building are (on the “Visconsi Way” portion of Smith Road), revamping the rest of the plaza where the new Goodwill was put in (on Pearl across from Applebee’s), and trying to get Bradnan’s Bowling Alley reopened (the last original Southland business to close).

In his address, Mayor Starr mentioned “Middleburg 2020,” which is 20 projects and ideas that were given in 2009 with the hope of having them accomplished by the year 2020 (part of Starr’s big picture “2020 vision” philosophy). One of these ideas has to do with Middleburg Commons, the former spot of CA Thomas Elementary School (on Bagley across from the Community Center), which is now a 16 acre park/”green space.”[34]  Starr would like to build a new library there while still maintaining a green space. Another idea city government has been looking into is building a new police station, replacing the old one that was built in 1980. The last project he mentioned was (re)developing three major commerce parks; one on Englewood near UPS, another one across the street (which is a 21 acre parcel that could be used for office or retail), and 50 acres[35] on Bagley from I-71 to Fry Road. This last area is the project that is receiving the most attention from city government, as they have brought in Paul Volpe of City Architecture Inc. to look at what the possibilities are for it. Volpe also spoke at the State of the City address and said the outlook of the project is “discovering potential and creating value.” To do this, Volpe placed an emphasis on the new suburban trends, which essentially involve what he calls “mixed use development.” There are four different concepts that are being considered (all include a walkway to a small lake that is on the property as well as a new road through the property): 1.) attract a corporate headquarters (Volpe called this the most ambitious goal), 2.) retain the present Ernst & Young training facility and Columbia Gas property, while developing around them, 3.) expand the residential neighborhood, which would be geared toward senior citizens,[36] and 4.) build an office and medical campus. Volpe said how any of these concepts would yield a large return on investment for the city (i.e. $3 million from the city for road and utilities could spur a $95 million private investment) and add a “civic corridor” to Bagley Road.

It is expected for those in government to give a very positive picture of how things are, which is not to say that there are not some great things happening in the city of Middleburg Heights nor is it to say that the city government does not have a solid, goal-oriented plan for the future. While it may be unreasonable to demand the city to have the best economy in Cuyahoga County (it has limitations that other cities do not), it is not unreasonable to say that there are definitely things that the city can improve upon or do differently. Beyond improving upon advanced economic measures, it would be nice to see the city invest more in its heritage. Part of creating a better community is informing residents about those who came before them. If the city can set aside money for a new library, rec center, police station, or even a sign with all the names of those in city government declaring an empty field to be a park, certainly they can set some money aside to get the Middleburg Heights Historical Society out of a back corner classroom of Middlebrook Education Center (formerly elementary school), to take extra measures to point out significant historical sites in the city (e.g. old homes, the hidden cemetery on Fowles, and the nostalgic 1950s flare of Southland), or at the very least, to refurbish the District 10 schoolhouse (perhaps the most important site in Middleburg Heights’ history) so that it no longer sits empty. Now, some of these things are out of the city government’s control, but it is certainly an overall concept that is feasible. Middleburg Heights has done very well for itself over its history and striving for growth in the future is a necessity, but we must not forget about our past.

Notes

Bichara, Charles. Interview by author. Phone interview, April 9, 2014.                                            Holzworth, Walter. Men of Grit and Greatness: A Historical Account of Middleburg Township, Berea, Brook Park and Middleburg Heights. Berea, Ohio: Berea Historical Society, 1970.       Johnson, Crisfield. History of Cuyahoga County, Ohio: in three parts : with portraits and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers. Philadelphia: D.W. Ensign, 1879.                                           
McEntee, Ron. Pioneer Trail at Hickox Park. Middleburg Hts., OH: The SWAMP Co.,              2000.       
 Menzel, Betsy , Roseann Conley, and Anne Kazimer. The History of Middleburg Heights                       Ohio: 75th Anniversary Edition. Middleburgh Heights, OH: Corporate Graphics, 2003.     
Menzel, Betsy,  Redmon, Brian, and Smith, Robert. "History of Our Community." Middleburg

Heights. http://www.middleburgheights.com/mbh/history (accessed April 12, 2014).

Starr, Gary, Volpe, Paul. "Middleburg Heights State of the City." Address, State of the City

Address from City of Middleburg Heights, Middleburg Heights, OH, April 10, 2014.

Shaw, Willard H.. Historical facts concerning Berea and Middleburgh Township. Souvenir ed.   

Berea, Ohio: Mohler Print. Co., 1936.

Tassel, David D., and John J. Grabowski. The Encyclopedia of Cleveland history. Second   

Edition ed. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1987.

Special thanks to Rose Conley and Carole Minch of the Middleburg Heights Historical Society, who hours out of their days to help me look through archives. Thanks also to Charles Bichara, who was willing to speak over the phone and was extremely courteous.   

 

 

  

 

---

[1] Ron McEntee. Pioneer Trail at Hickox Park. Middleburg Hts., OH: The SWAMP Co., 2000.

[2] Betsy Menzel, Brian Redmon, and Robert Smith. "History of Our Community." Middleburg Heights. http://www.middleburgheights.com/mbh/history (accessed April 12, 2014).

[3] Betsy Menzel , Roseann Conley, and Anne Kazimer. The History of Middleburg Heights Ohio: 75th Anniversary Edition. (Middleburgh Heights, OH: Corporate Graphics, 2003), p. 1.

[4] Menzel, Conley, Kazimer, 1. It is said that Jared Hickox was not very popular in Waterbury because he was a British sympathizer

[5] Ibid. 2

[6] “History of Our Community,” Middleburg Heights, http://www.middleburgheights.com/mbh/history. 

[7] Menzel, Conley, Kazimer, pp. 3-4. “Burgh” was a Dutch word for fort, three of which were built in protection from Indians, and only the middle one survived.

[8] “Early History of Berea and Middleburgh Township,” John Baldwin, 1874. Baldwin’s work is found in Shaw, Willard H.. Historical facts concerning Berea and Middleburgh Township. Souvenir ed. (Berea, Ohio: Mohler Print. Co., 1936) . The quarry business lasted nearly a century, from 1840 to roughly 1940. It is often forgotten that Middleburg Heights also had a quarry known as the Smith Road Quarries, which went up to 80 feet deep (see pictures at end).

[9] Menzel, Conley, Kazimer, 4. Popular tale among locals, coin flip between Berea and Tabor.

[10]Crisfield Johnson. History of Cuyahoga County, Ohio: In Three Parts : With Portraits and Biographical Sketches of its Prominent Men and Pioneers. (Philadelphia: D.W. Ensign), 1879, 476.

[11] Menzel, Conley, Kazimer, 3. This outlet became known as Abram Creek and extends to the Cleveland Hopkins Airport.

[12] Ibid.

[13]Walter Holzworth, Men of Grit and Greatness: A Historical Account of Middleburg Township, Berea, Brook Park and Middleburg Heights. (Berea, Ohio: Berea Historical Society, 1970)., pp. 81-2. A much smaller portion of Lake Abram still exists today and is owned by the Cleveland Metroparks, but much of its beauty was dried up for the use of land, including the beautiful brook for which “Brook Park” was named that was destroyed for Cleveland Hopkins Airport (Holzworth, 146).

[14] Ibid. 139

[15] Ibid. 140. Interestingly enough, as Brook Park was a pest to Berea, Cleveland would become a pest to Brook Park. The big city was able to obtain 1,000 acres for Cleveland Hopkins Airport in 1925 and attempted to annex the entire city in 1929. Later on, the Federal Government would use 294 acres in Brook Park for a bomber plant (now the I-X Center) and then more land was used by the Ford Motor Company in 1949.

[16] Ibid. 147.

[17] According to the Menzel, Conley, and Kazimer, a few of these were built in 1925 with the aim of giving the town a “Shaker Heights” flare, one of these Tudor houses still remains (see picture at end), but more were not built because of the Depression.

[18] Holtzworth., 147.

[19] Menzel, Conley, Kazimer, 6.

[20] Ibid., 7.  All subsequent information about city hall stems from this source. See picture section of other proposed design.

[21] Ibid., 9

[22] Ibid., 9-10. This was Middleburg Heights Community Church and it originally met in city hall, but would move right down the street in 1954 where it still stands today.

[23] Ibid., 11

[24] Ibid.

[25] Ibid., 16. “’Rolling Ranchlands’ is the area bounded by Sprague, Pearl, and Webster Roads.”

[26] David D. Tassel, and John J. Grabowski. The Encyclopedia of Cleveland history. Second Edition ed. (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1987), p. 700. Notice also that the “H” was dropped as people were often saying “Get the H out of Middleburgh” (MHHS, 16).

[27] Menzel, Conley, Kazimer, 16

[28] Ibid., 17

[29] This is not entirely due to the fact that people moved out and less people moved in. When looking at this, one has to consider factors such as the birth rate, especially in light of the fact that the schools in the city would have originally served baby boomers when they were built.

[30] Bichara points out how this effect was felt in many cities.

[31] This stat is according to Bichara, although the city’s website says that there are 34,943 employees.

[32] Middleburg Heights is quickly becoming known as a medical hub as it has 1.4 million square feet of medical space and is a home to all three major hospitals in the Cleveland area (University Hospitals, Cleveland Clinic, and MetroHealth). Southwest General Hospital is the city’s largest employer.

[33] This is an important point especially in light of the recent shopping expansions in Strongsville and Brunswick. The shopping areas of Route 82 (Strongsville) and Route 303 (Brunswick) both have these features, which may be good for business, but can be awful for traffic! 

[34] Green spaces are important to the city government as both Starr and Bichara stated that it gives Middleburg Heights a unique quality that creates a community feel (e.g. the Lake to Lake Trail).

[35] The actual amount of acreage that would be built on is confusing (this number kept being thrown out), as it seems to include established buildings like the Community Center.

[36] Volpe was adamant that these would not be nursing homes. If this concept was chosen, it would add to the two other new residential developments in the Fry Road area.